[MoveMedia]

Hi

I have bought a 2007 3.2 DiD. It does not have diff lock but I have been told by two different mechanics that because my model has auto traction control, it does not need and you cannot fit any form of diff lock.

* Is this true?

* Is the auto traction control that good that it can replace diff lock?

Thanks
Mark

[4ePikanini]

diff lock is nice but traction control is safer and in the hands of a good driver, that understands the vehicle, just as capable as a diff lock vehicle (if not more so IMHO).

[Gerrit Loubser]

I have bought a 2007 3.2 DiD.

Hi. Is this a Gen 3 or a Gen 4 (07 was the transition year when the new model was launched, if I recall correctly)?

It does not have diff lock but I have been told by two different mechanics that because my model has auto traction control, it does not need and you cannot fit any form of diff lock.

* Is this true?

No. You can retrofit an ARB diff lock or you could retrofit a locking rear diff from a pre 03 GLS or a GLX.

* Is the auto traction control that good that it can replace diff lock?

Yes and No. In my opinion, if you compare a good traction control system with a rear diff lock only system, things are quite equal with either option having the upper hand under specific situations: Rear diff lock is better when things happen fast and the traction control re-acts too slowly, such as when climbing a steep, loose, undulating hill or in sand, while traction control is better in some rock crawling situations, because it acts on all four wheels. Traction control can be a bit of a pain in the behind in sand, even with the vehicle stability system turned off.

When comparing traction control with a system with front and rear diff locks, the latter wins hands down, though.

Before you decide to retrofit a diff lock, see how you go with the traction control in the type of conditions that you typically use the Paj in.

[MoveMedia]

Thanks for prompt replies. My previous 4x4's both had rear diff and found it a crucial tool to have; Isuzu 2.8 DC & Prado.

I have never driven a 4x4 with auto traction, or auto gearbox for that matter. I'm not a "serious 4x4'er but enjoy going on tracks that require 4x4 as well as good 4x4 vehicle driving knowledge. I found that diff lock can get you through most.

Mitsubishi claim you cannot fit a diff lock system to the auto set up;
* Why do they claim that?
* Why would you want to fit it if the auto is designed to do the same, if not a better job?
* Why would Mitsubishi go backwards in their tried and tested 4x4 capabilities?

Thanks again for sharing your thoughts on this
Regards
Mark

[Gerrit Loubser]

Mitsubishi claim you cannot fit a diff lock system to the auto set up;
* Why do they claim that?

I don't really know. Perhaps the guys you spoke to are not really 4x4 enthusiasts. Perhaps they are not the kind of person that thinks outside the box. Perhaps they are much more clued up than I and I am dead wrong; I have not actually retrofitted a Gen 3 with a diff lock, but I believe that I did the homework to establish that it can be done...

* Why would you want to fit it if the auto is designed to do the same, if not a better job?

Because traction control is not always better.

Because having both a diff lock and traction control (especially if they can both be operative at the same time) is the ultimate system...

* Why would Mitsubishi go backwards in their tried and tested 4x4 capabilities?

Because traction control mostly uses hardware that is part of the ABS system and is there anyway (=cost saving).

Because the inclusion of traction control makes it possible to add an additional safety feature in the form of vehicle stability control for very little additional cost.

Because it is much easier to safeguard an electronic traction control system against operator abuse than a diff lock.

[Bigwill]

What you have been told is in essence correct. However both difflock and TC have pro's and cons. TC works for me. It for instance also offers traction management on the front axel. Difflock used to be rear axel only. You need to get used to TC. It requires a very steady right foot. It will spin before it takes and this is what some people do not like. If you are prepared to SPEND you can have a diff with difflock installed in addition to TC. Under extreme condition such as loose boulders TC sometimes overheats the brakes and then switches out for protection.

[cloyd]

In reply to the query by Movemedia on 7 Feb 2011.

1. I have a 2004 3.8 GLS and it comes standaard with Trackion Control. TC works like a charm but at times you do not want to get any wheelspin. TC works on the principal that a wheel needs to spin before TC will act - by braking the spinning wheel ant thus "moving" the twisting moment over to the wheel that is not spinning.

2. I decided that I would prefer to have both - TC and a lockable rear diff. This involved getting a lockable Pajero diff and the vacume/air pump fitted above the rear diff (the same pump is also fitted to the Triton bakkies). And for a real professional job, also the wiring loom from the diff to the computer in the left rear of the Pajero as well as the wiring loom from this box to the front control box mounted in front of the gearshifter below the console as well as the diff lock switch in the console. The "black boxes" are of no use in this case.

3. If you can get a rear diff with the same ratio as your existing diff, the job is easy. However, if the ratio is different, then you must replace both the front and rear diffs. On my GLS the diff ratio (front and rear) was 4.3:1 whilst the ratios of the lockable diffs were either 4.1:1 or 3.9:1. The result was the replacement of both diffs. Not a train smash but a lot more work.

4. The replacement of both the diffs took about 4 hours and was a case of unscrewing the old and putting in the "new". The air pump is mounted above the rear diff. All the holes are already there so it was simply a case of installing it. The wiring took a bit longer. The correct colour coded wires were removed from the two short looms and married up with the standard loom from the back of the car all the way to the front.

5. Power for the diff lock in my installation is drawn directly from the battery and includes a fuse for safety. The power is taken to the switch that is installed on the righthand side of the dash below the lightswitch. Ther is a blank cover that can be removed and the lock switch installed in its place.

6. A warning system using a red LED that indicates that the rear diff is locked was also installed - to prevent one from forgetting the diff lock in the "ON" position

7. The advantage of "my" system is that you as the driver decide when you want the diff to be locked and when not to. My system enables me to use the dill lock in high range in 2H. During December 2010 we, hte good wife and I, completed a 5 day tour in the Namib and I had the diff lock engaged for the whole time whilst in the dunes. The nice thing about "my" system is that traction control is still available but when it kicks in you must be realy deep inthe "sh.t". With the diff "Open", the TC works like normal. The other nice aspect is that it is still a Pajero system and not some aftermarker system.

8. If you should decide to go this route and not the much more expencive rout of ARB etc, I would recommend that you replace the oil seals of the "new" diff(s) as well as the electrical contacts that indicate that the dill is locked.

9. The cost was about R5000,00 on an exchange base. If I can be of further assistence please call at: 012 567 4909 or 083 564 9141.

All the best, Cloyd.

[MoveMedia]

Hi all

Thanks very much all.

Cloyde, your job sounded a lot more ex than the price you listed at the end of your post. I will need to do some research on whats available in CT and look into the ratio issue before I decide.

Thanks
Mark

[KaiV]

All

I have both. TC and rear diff lock.
My personal preference is using the diff lock over TC. With the DL, there is no (or little) wheel spin, one can go through obstacles easier.
My problem with the TC in the Paj is that she needs constant revs (at around 2000RPM) and that's too fast. If you dont keep your RPM totally constant, the ECU keeps reworking out what it needs to do.

My preference would be a front lockers though

[cloyd]

MoveMedia,

1. RE: my reply on 10 Feb 2011.

2. I would like to add the following:

a. The price that you pay for a diff)s) at the second hand stealers depents totally on your negosiating skills. Try and go for an exchange basis. It will be difficult to sell your existing "open" diff(s) and it will thus be laying in your garage causing bumped toes etc.

b. If you should decide to go the Pajero "lock" diff way, I must mention that the flanges on the sides of the diff where you attach the side shafts to, comes in two sizes - a very slight difference that is very difficult to see when they are still in the diff(s). If the "new" diff(s) flanges are not the correct size, pull them out using a pry bar or tyre lever and use your existing ones. They "clip" in. This will also be a good time to replace the oil seals.

c. When I was looking for a lockable rear diff and before deciding to go the Pajero way, LA Sport quoted me between RK13 and RK15 for an ARB setup.

Cloyd.