Thanks for the suggestion...... seeing as there's some minor adjustment that must be done by the manufacturers, I'm going to ask that they add some form of bolt protections, as you recommend.......Thanks
Hi Guys
Thanks for the suggestion...... seeing as there's some minor adjustment that must be done by the manufacturers, I'm going to ask that they add some form of bolt protections, as you recommend.......Thanks
Thanks for the suggestion...... seeing as there's some minor adjustment that must be done by the manufacturers, I'm going to ask that they add some form of bolt protections, as you recommend.......Thanks
Negativety and Non-enthiusiasm are the only obstacles we shouldn't encounter "
1) Pajero 2.5Tdi SWB Gen 2, 1998, JUST SOLD - 1/2014
2) Subaru Forester 2.5 XS 2017
1) Pajero 2.5Tdi SWB Gen 2, 1998, JUST SOLD - 1/2014
2) Subaru Forester 2.5 XS 2017
Hi Achille,
Are these all high tensile steel bolts, I've started replacing all my bolts that will be used on winch box, tow-bar, extra recovery points with High tensile, apparently the normal bolts have a shear strength of 3,000Kg, whereas the high tensile bolts of the same size should only shear between 9,000kg & 11,000kg.
Regards
Ned
Are these all high tensile steel bolts, I've started replacing all my bolts that will be used on winch box, tow-bar, extra recovery points with High tensile, apparently the normal bolts have a shear strength of 3,000Kg, whereas the high tensile bolts of the same size should only shear between 9,000kg & 11,000kg.
Regards
Ned
Hi NedHi Achille,
Are these all high tensile steel bolts
No, I doubt they are H/T bolts........only worry with that (pros & cons)......is that if they do shear off, you probably can't / will have difficulty in drilling the thread bolt out of the welded on nut. I probably could contemplate using H/T bolts, as the old removed ones almost all sheared off in the nuts, so therein had to be cut off with an angle grinder.
They are now loose nut /bolt fittings, so...... H/T bolts could work well.
I think if you retro-fit H/T bolts, remove the fixed nuts and match up with loose H/T nuts as well ??
Negativety and Non-enthiusiasm are the only obstacles we shouldn't encounter "
1) Pajero 2.5Tdi SWB Gen 2, 1998, JUST SOLD - 1/2014
2) Subaru Forester 2.5 XS 2017
1) Pajero 2.5Tdi SWB Gen 2, 1998, JUST SOLD - 1/2014
2) Subaru Forester 2.5 XS 2017
Hi Achille,
I think if your looking at a nut/bolt combination, then I would thread the bolt in from the top, until it sticks out at the bottom enough to hold at least a nut & a locking washer, and then for good measure, loc-tite / spot weld the nut so it doesn't come loose while off-roading ever.
That way if it does shear off, then you can still unscrew the bolt from the top without problem.
I think if your looking at a nut/bolt combination, then I would thread the bolt in from the top, until it sticks out at the bottom enough to hold at least a nut & a locking washer, and then for good measure, loc-tite / spot weld the nut so it doesn't come loose while off-roading ever.
That way if it does shear off, then you can still unscrew the bolt from the top without problem.
Site Admin
I think the tensile strength of the bolt in use for bash plates is irrelevant.
You're getting tensile strength and shear confused (I'm no engineer so Gerard and Gerrit will jump in very quickly if I'm wrong)
For towbars and winches, tensile strength is extremely important because this is resistance to distortion (and breakage) by pulling. But a high tensile bolt is vulnerable to shear (A sideways force).
I think Ned's idea is a good one in that the bolt/nut can be done the other way round, but often these things are installed when the thread is tapped into the chassis member, so you wouldn't use nuts.
You're getting tensile strength and shear confused (I'm no engineer so Gerard and Gerrit will jump in very quickly if I'm wrong)
For towbars and winches, tensile strength is extremely important because this is resistance to distortion (and breakage) by pulling. But a high tensile bolt is vulnerable to shear (A sideways force).
I think Ned's idea is a good one in that the bolt/nut can be done the other way round, but often these things are installed when the thread is tapped into the chassis member, so you wouldn't use nuts.
Simon Bloomer
Hi Guys,
Simon, I'm also not clued up on these things, hence when I bought mine, I specifically asked for the shear strengths,
I have also noticed as you say, that these are usually threaded into the chassis body, maybe, if one could get to the top, it can be drilled open, so the bolt could then be threaded in from the top.
Simon, I'm also not clued up on these things, hence when I bought mine, I specifically asked for the shear strengths,
I have also noticed as you say, that these are usually threaded into the chassis body, maybe, if one could get to the top, it can be drilled open, so the bolt could then be threaded in from the top.