Got a puncture yesterday, and Mits has made the wheel nuts *&%$#ing tight
, had no option but to turn the one until it came off.Am also going to whine at Mits since I have never had the wheels off it is their doing...
Any thoughts?
Cheers
Anyone know what it involves to get a stud on the rear wheel replaced?
Got a puncture yesterday, and Mits has made the wheel nuts *&%$#ing tight , had no option but to turn the one until it came off.
Am also going to whine at Mits since I have never had the wheels off it is their doing...
Any thoughts?
Cheers
Got a puncture yesterday, and Mits has made the wheel nuts *&%$#ing tight
, had no option but to turn the one until it came off.Am also going to whine at Mits since I have never had the wheels off it is their doing...
Any thoughts?
Cheers
Howsit
Lots of work involved unfortunately. The only way is to get to the back of the hub assembly, as you must push the bolt back to get it out. To do this, involves removing the CV from the hub assembly.
First undo and remove the nut that holds the CV on the wheel bearing.
Remove the brreak calipers and hang one side with bungy cords
Undo the two control arms where they attach to the hub assembly and push then aside, no longer attached to e hub
Now pull the CV and drive shaft back towards the diff, carefull not to pull the whole driveshaft out of the diff.
If all goes to plan up to now, you will have access to the 4 bolts holding the hub wheel bearing hub assembly. Loosen them and remove.
Now pull the whole wheel bearing hub assembly out completely.
You now have full access to the bolt. You can hit it with a hammer to remove.
Replace with the new one
Reverse the procedure to get everything back in.
Last thing to make sure to check is that the innder CV is seated well in the diff, otherwise it will leak oil.
All in all this should not take longer than 40 minutes to an hour, if this is unfamiliar territory for you.
If you struggle, give me a call.
Cheers
Johann
Lots of work involved unfortunately. The only way is to get to the back of the hub assembly, as you must push the bolt back to get it out. To do this, involves removing the CV from the hub assembly.
First undo and remove the nut that holds the CV on the wheel bearing.
Remove the brreak calipers and hang one side with bungy cords
Undo the two control arms where they attach to the hub assembly and push then aside, no longer attached to e hub
Now pull the CV and drive shaft back towards the diff, carefull not to pull the whole driveshaft out of the diff.
If all goes to plan up to now, you will have access to the 4 bolts holding the hub wheel bearing hub assembly. Loosen them and remove.
Now pull the whole wheel bearing hub assembly out completely.
You now have full access to the bolt. You can hit it with a hammer to remove.
Replace with the new one
Reverse the procedure to get everything back in.
Last thing to make sure to check is that the innder CV is seated well in the diff, otherwise it will leak oil.
All in all this should not take longer than 40 minutes to an hour, if this is unfamiliar territory for you.
If you struggle, give me a call.
Cheers
Johann
Thanks Johann, that is great info.
You have convinced me though that sending it in to Mits is probably the safer option
You have convinced me though that sending it in to Mits is probably the safer option
... if it is under warranty, otherwise an independent workshop will most probably cost you a lot less.maccarron wrote: You have convinced me though that sending it in to Mits is probably the safer option
PS General tip:
If your vehicle comes back from a workshop where they tightened the wheel nuts, loosen them all and tighten to spec (preferably with a torque wrench).
You don't want to battle with a stuck wheel nut out in the bundus somewhere!
Gerhard Fourie
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
If you want to shoot somebody, make sure you aim at his head, not your own foot.
Me
Affiliate Member
exactly why I watch like a hawk in the rare event that I have to send my car somewhere to have stuff done.
I also make a nuisance of myself in telling the spanner boys how to do stuff my way.
No "mechanic" has ever used a air hammer gun on any of my cars and they never will!
I also make a nuisance of myself in telling the spanner boys how to do stuff my way.
No "mechanic" has ever used a air hammer gun on any of my cars and they never will!
Howsit maccarron
No problem, any time!
Gerhard and Marius are correct in their statements.
If the car is out of warranty and the maintenance plan, and you struggle to find a good workshop, give me a call and I will help you gladly.
Cheers,
Johann
No problem, any time!
Gerhard and Marius are correct in their statements.
If the car is out of warranty and the maintenance plan, and you struggle to find a good workshop, give me a call and I will help you gladly.
Cheers,
Johann
Great service from Mitsubishi East Rand as usual 
New stud, nuts, labour etc - R250.
Now to get the tyre fixed...
New stud, nuts, labour etc - R250.
Now to get the tyre fixed...
Not bad at all!maccarron wrote:Great service from Mitsubishi East Rand as usual
New stud, nuts, labour etc - R250.
That sounds like a 10 min job's rate!
Anton