Hi everyone.
I would like to know if anybody fitted a RTT on the standard rood rails of a LWB CK pajero?
I know the rails are rated to 100kg according to the manual. I had a look at some tents...anything from 30kg to 100kg is available so that should be fine....BUT then me and swambo in the tent with the tents weight will be well over the 100kg limit. Is this 100kg limit only for travelling purposes or is it the absolute max load on the roof?
Another question; do I need a full roofrack or will loadbars be good enough to mount the tent(if tent can be mounted) on the roof?
I've tried to find some pics online where a roofrack is installed on a CK but I couldn't find any good quality pics....so if you have done this....please post some pics?
Thank you all.
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I have Hannibal Tracks on my CK (Gen3) (original Bars removed). I have also seen a number of guys with Front Runner tracks and Roof Racks. They offer a good load spread and are in my opinion best if you want to fit a RT Tent.
What would be nice is if one can find adaptors that can fix a Thule roof rack onto the Hanibal or Front Runner Alu-Tracks. Then you save on the clearance height comming into the Garage door.
I had to have custon bars made and I still only scrape through. I made then from Steel and then Hot Dip Galvanise as Painting or Powder coating will rust again eventually. (I also did not have the money for Stainless Steel Racks, or the geniuine Hanibal brackets as they cost between R350 and R400 each (x4), depending where you go.
What would be nice is if one can find adaptors that can fix a Thule roof rack onto the Hanibal or Front Runner Alu-Tracks. Then you save on the clearance height comming into the Garage door.
I had to have custon bars made and I still only scrape through. I made then from Steel and then Hot Dip Galvanise as Painting or Powder coating will rust again eventually. (I also did not have the money for Stainless Steel Racks, or the geniuine Hanibal brackets as they cost between R350 and R400 each (x4), depending where you go.
MT,
The main problem with the standard bars is that the "uprights" are plastic. These will support your weight when stationary BUT when moving the dynamic loads on the "uprights" may be to much and they may break.
The answer is to buy a proper rack or if you do not like the looks of it, to modify the existing "uprihts" so that htey will be able to withstand the loads.
My "uprights" were milled out of solid aluminium and I am of opinion that my rack is stronger that any aftermarket rack BUT they still look the same as the standard ones.
Cloyd.
The main problem with the standard bars is that the "uprights" are plastic. These will support your weight when stationary BUT when moving the dynamic loads on the "uprights" may be to much and they may break.
The answer is to buy a proper rack or if you do not like the looks of it, to modify the existing "uprihts" so that htey will be able to withstand the loads.
My "uprights" were milled out of solid aluminium and I am of opinion that my rack is stronger that any aftermarket rack BUT they still look the same as the standard ones.
Cloyd.
Hi Cloyd and MCC
Thank you for the replies. I really appreciate it.
The whole RTT setup cost is a big factor. I don't want to spend to much on this setup because we will not use it very often. But I don't want to take shortcuts and mess the Pajero up. Our holidays is mainly a diving holiday at least once a year and then a driving holiday every 2nd or 3rd year. On our diving holidays we use a normal tent(trailer in the future I hope) and not the RTT.
The RTT option will be for the occasional over landing/weekend trip like a river trip, Baviaans (in the near future) and hopefully in the not to distance future, some of our neighboring countries.
Changing the standard rails to new, stronger rails will be my last option, due to cost. This is not a cheap option.
The standard uprights will support the weight when stationary? This is great, so the roof structure etc is strong enough to carry this capacity. I know the moving weight is a problem...so, if I go for a RTT that weights in at about 40kg, will this still be a problem or should this be ok?
One unanswered question (or I didn't read properly), do you only use load bars or do you have solid roofracks for the RTT?
MMC, clearance will be a problem for me as well, with a RTT I will not make it under my carport.....guess I will pack the pajero, pull out from under the carport, fitt RTT, drive off....or get a new carport.
Cloyd, where did you get the alum machined and how did you go about it? gave them the standard ones and asked them to copy it? Or did you draw the models and asked them to machine it?
If you have pictures, could you please maybe upload a few?
Thank you for the replies. I really appreciate it.
The whole RTT setup cost is a big factor. I don't want to spend to much on this setup because we will not use it very often. But I don't want to take shortcuts and mess the Pajero up. Our holidays is mainly a diving holiday at least once a year and then a driving holiday every 2nd or 3rd year. On our diving holidays we use a normal tent(trailer in the future I hope) and not the RTT.
The RTT option will be for the occasional over landing/weekend trip like a river trip, Baviaans (in the near future) and hopefully in the not to distance future, some of our neighboring countries.
Changing the standard rails to new, stronger rails will be my last option, due to cost. This is not a cheap option.
The standard uprights will support the weight when stationary? This is great, so the roof structure etc is strong enough to carry this capacity. I know the moving weight is a problem...so, if I go for a RTT that weights in at about 40kg, will this still be a problem or should this be ok?
One unanswered question (or I didn't read properly), do you only use load bars or do you have solid roofracks for the RTT?
MMC, clearance will be a problem for me as well, with a RTT I will not make it under my carport.....guess I will pack the pajero, pull out from under the carport, fitt RTT, drive off....or get a new carport.
Cloyd, where did you get the alum machined and how did you go about it? gave them the standard ones and asked them to copy it? Or did you draw the models and asked them to machine it?
If you have pictures, could you please maybe upload a few?
You have to have load bars for the RTT.
I have a additional Allumnium Flat RoofRack made from 25mm Alluminium onto which I bolt the RTT, but it is not really neccessary. For me it is just usefull to carry other items like the canoe. The weight of what you intend to carry is important, but the bigger force is that of the wind on the object. A canoe on the roof at 100km/h with a strong crosswind does have the ability to move your vehicle aroung a bit on the road.
So the roof rack is really not limited to the RTT. It caters for all of the other bulky and unfriendly stuff. (like Extra fuel, which you do not want to keep in the car.)
I have a additional Allumnium Flat RoofRack made from 25mm Alluminium onto which I bolt the RTT, but it is not really neccessary. For me it is just usefull to carry other items like the canoe. The weight of what you intend to carry is important, but the bigger force is that of the wind on the object. A canoe on the roof at 100km/h with a strong crosswind does have the ability to move your vehicle aroung a bit on the road.
So the roof rack is really not limited to the RTT. It caters for all of the other bulky and unfriendly stuff. (like Extra fuel, which you do not want to keep in the car.)
I will go for the minimum of at least two load bars, maybe more if I want to build a small roof rack that will go in front/back of the RTT.
Will only carry bulky stuff on the roof, chairs, fold up table, maybe diesel but that wonly be whenill we go far away. jerry cans unfortunately adds weight very quickly. 1 can is already 20kg+....plus RTT, chairs, 100kg is not that much if you think about it.
I guess there is no easy way out of this, get the proper rails and work from there.
Will only carry bulky stuff on the roof, chairs, fold up table, maybe diesel but that wonly be whenill we go far away. jerry cans unfortunately adds weight very quickly. 1 can is already 20kg+....plus RTT, chairs, 100kg is not that much if you think about it.
I guess there is no easy way out of this, get the proper rails and work from there.
MT,
I drilled and tapped the backs of the "uprifgts" so that they will take two 8mm bolts. I made angle iron brackets that one bolts to the "uprights" and then bolt the RTT crossbars to the angle iron brackets. The crossbars are rectangular tubing. I also made additional crossbars and use these for an additional fueltank (when needed), a steel bin with all my gas braai and lighting in plus some spare space where I carry braai wood or anything else that does not have a place inside the Pajero.
A few weeks ago, I found a guy who can cast the pillars. This should be much cheaper and faster that milling them. The nice thing about this conversion is that the new roofrack looks the same and is at exactly the same height as the standard bars.
Cloyd
I drilled and tapped the backs of the "uprifgts" so that they will take two 8mm bolts. I made angle iron brackets that one bolts to the "uprights" and then bolt the RTT crossbars to the angle iron brackets. The crossbars are rectangular tubing. I also made additional crossbars and use these for an additional fueltank (when needed), a steel bin with all my gas braai and lighting in plus some spare space where I carry braai wood or anything else that does not have a place inside the Pajero.
A few weeks ago, I found a guy who can cast the pillars. This should be much cheaper and faster that milling them. The nice thing about this conversion is that the new roofrack looks the same and is at exactly the same height as the standard bars.
Cloyd
I have been running the clamp-on RR since my 2003 Pajero. We even had the misfortune to have an accident on the N4 with a loaded clamp-on RR. I have not seen any evidence that point towards a failing rail or support.
Our last trip in November we carted furniture
(wrapped in canvas) to Paternoster on the roofrack. I personally have no doubt that if I decide to go for a RTT, for our planned Bots trip in May, that I will clamp it onto my existing rails - and most probably use the "clamp-feet" of my current Frontrunner to attach the RTT.
When I traded my 2000 DiD on a six month old 2003 DiD, I took my new car to the 4x4 shop in Nelspruit and asked then to remove the rails and fit the track - so I can use my existing RR. When I returned later, they said they didn't have balls to strip out the rooflining on a such a new car to complete the job. I agreed with them and traded the old rack in on a new clamp-on one.
Our last trip in November we carted furniture
(wrapped in canvas) to Paternoster on the roofrack. I personally have no doubt that if I decide to go for a RTT, for our planned Bots trip in May, that I will clamp it onto my existing rails - and most probably use the "clamp-feet" of my current Frontrunner to attach the RTT.When I traded my 2000 DiD on a six month old 2003 DiD, I took my new car to the 4x4 shop in Nelspruit and asked then to remove the rails and fit the track - so I can use my existing RR. When I returned later, they said they didn't have balls to strip out the rooflining on a such a new car to complete the job. I agreed with them and traded the old rack in on a new clamp-on one.
If you have garage door height then it's ok, but with clamp-on there is normally a 100mm gap between the underside of the load bars and the top of the roof. With tracks, my gap is 12-15mm.
FYI, Lowering the roof lining is actually not too difficult. You don't have to strip the whole roof lining out. You only loosen the roof lining & the door rubbers at the doors, and then work through the gap. It is notmally big enough to get your arm in to touch up paint and hold the nut and washer.
FYI, Lowering the roof lining is actually not too difficult. You don't have to strip the whole roof lining out. You only loosen the roof lining & the door rubbers at the doors, and then work through the gap. It is notmally big enough to get your arm in to touch up paint and hold the nut and washer.
I fully understand the garage door issue - I'm lucky that mine fits at home. Our Paternoster garage didn't work though, so there I had to park next to the house. The beauty of the clamp-on is that it can come off in a few minutes.
I actually thought I'd take it off and stick it in the trailer for the trip home - supposedly we were not goint to remove stuff form the Paternoster house to take to Barberton - "except for a few insignificant things" - ha ha, you guys are all married know what those lovely creatures are capable of
"You only loosen the roof lining & the door rubbers at the doors, and then work through the gap. It is notmally big enough to get your arm in to touch up paint and hold the nut and washer." This may not be difficult, but it is outside my scope of things to do to a new Pajero
I actually thought I'd take it off and stick it in the trailer for the trip home - supposedly we were not goint to remove stuff form the Paternoster house to take to Barberton - "except for a few insignificant things" - ha ha, you guys are all married know what those lovely creatures are capable of
"You only loosen the roof lining & the door rubbers at the doors, and then work through the gap. It is notmally big enough to get your arm in to touch up paint and hold the nut and washer." This may not be difficult, but it is outside my scope of things to do to a new Pajero