Hi,
Hope this was not discussed before but I suck at searching these forums and could not find anything.
How difficult is it to do a service in the 3.8 V6. Mine is due for its service, currently at 124K km's and I am wondering if I can do the service myself or should I take it to a workshop.
I have serviced my ML270 the last few years myself but it is a diesel and is easier to do than a petrol I take.
If I do it myself, is there anything I should look out for and where can I get all the technical stuff.
Thanks
Hsmnel,
Oil and filters. It takes 5L. I use Caltex Delo 400 15W40 multigrade. Easy.
PS: is it due for the 120k service? That one also needs gear and diff oils changed. Quite a bit more involved, but totally do-able at home. Just get the workshop manual down loaded from this forum. If the plugs were done at the big 90k service, then they can last for a long time still. If not, then you want to change them as well. Big job as the inlet plenium is in the way.
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Oil and filters. It takes 5L. I use Caltex Delo 400 15W40 multigrade. Easy.
PS: is it due for the 120k service? That one also needs gear and diff oils changed. Quite a bit more involved, but totally do-able at home. Just get the workshop manual down loaded from this forum. If the plugs were done at the big 90k service, then they can last for a long time still. If not, then you want to change them as well. Big job as the inlet plenium is in the way.
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Forum Runner
Last edited by RoelfleRoux on Tue Dec 02, 2014 12:00 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Thanks, what about the plugs?RoelfleRoux wrote:Hsmnel,
Oil and filters. It takes 5L. I use Caltex Delo 400 15W40 multigrade. Easy
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It sounds like the brake pads also need replacement. What make is the best to use and how easy is it to replace. My ML took 5 minutes to change.
See my PS above. It takes me bloody hours to type on my phone
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hsmnel,
Easy! Pending on what service is required you will need oil, air and aircon filters (gearbox as well if you are going to change that), oil for engine, diffs and transfer case and gearbox, seal rings for the various plugs, tools (nothing special) and time.
Change oils and filters when they are due. You can change everything without a jack or ramps - the use of these makes it a bit easier. Brake pads easy - basically the same as for any vehicle with flouting callipers (FRRODO pads). Changing the handbrake liners is a bit more involved but still well within the average DIY-er's ability.
I use HELIX oil for the engine and CASTROL oils for the diffs and transfer case and the genuine Mitsubishi oil for the gearbox. Filters GUD or genuine from the stealers.
As Roelf said, changing the sparkplugs is a more involved
job but still do-able. In my opinion changing the cam belt (and water pump) should be left to the stealers unless you are a serious DIY-er.
Cloyd.
Easy! Pending on what service is required you will need oil, air and aircon filters (gearbox as well if you are going to change that), oil for engine, diffs and transfer case and gearbox, seal rings for the various plugs, tools (nothing special) and time.
Change oils and filters when they are due. You can change everything without a jack or ramps - the use of these makes it a bit easier. Brake pads easy - basically the same as for any vehicle with flouting callipers (FRRODO pads). Changing the handbrake liners is a bit more involved but still well within the average DIY-er's ability.
I use HELIX oil for the engine and CASTROL oils for the diffs and transfer case and the genuine Mitsubishi oil for the gearbox. Filters GUD or genuine from the stealers.
As Roelf said, changing the sparkplugs is a more involved
job but still do-able. In my opinion changing the cam belt (and water pump) should be left to the stealers unless you are a serious DIY-er.
Cloyd.
Thanks for all the feedback.
Think I will start with everything to just before the spark plugs and see if I have time to attempt them.
My seriousness about DIY is about at spark plug level
Think I will start with everything to just before the spark plugs and see if I have time to attempt them.
My seriousness about DIY is about at spark plug level
I am doing the oil this weekend. Have been using a oil suction pump on the ML. Is this OK to do with the Pajero.
Where is the oil filter located. I do not see it from the top so assume I need to get under the car to find it. I am still working through the manuals and have not find the one showing the oil filter location.
Where is the oil filter located. I do not see it from the top so assume I need to get under the car to find it. I am still working through the manuals and have not find the one showing the oil filter location.
Hi Hsmnelhsmnel wrote:I am doing the oil this weekend. Have been using a oil suction pump on the ML. Is this OK to do with the Pajero.
The vacuum oil suction pump works OK, but I only use it when I have accidentally overfilled my tranny or sump. My reasoning is that properly draining the oil from a hot/warm engine would allow the sediment & sludge to run down & out the sump plug more readily than trying to suck it up through a very narrow tube via the dipstick.
On my old 6G74 motor I had to lie underneath to remove & replace the oil filter, the sump plug (with new copper washer) was done at the same time while down there.
You can also go the mile by pouring 500 ml of clean oil through the engine with the sump plug still removed to flush the last traces of the old oil out before refilling.
M2CW.
Ps. Remember to check if the rubber "O" ring seal came off with the old oil filter (it sometimes sticks to the block) and to prime the new 'O' ring with oil before fitting.
Nicholas Gibson
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
2005 Gen 3 Pajero 3.2 DiD Auto LWB
Mods:
ARB front bumper, OME, Lynx Bash Plate, Lynx Rock-sliders, Lynx rear steel bumper, Front Runner 40lt Long range tank, Madman EMS2 with EGT, dual battery system, 700FF spots
Corsa 1.4 Club (swambo)
Cape Town
"In my house I'm the boss, my wife is just the decision maker." - Woody Allen
I went and bought some DELO400 but I see in the can it says for Diesel engines. Is this correct?RoelfleRoux wrote:Hsmnel,
Oil and filters. It takes 5L. I use Caltex Delo 400 15W40 multigrade. Easy.
PS: is it due for the 120k service? That one also needs gear and diff oils changed. Quite a bit more involved, but totally do-able at home. Just get the workshop manual down loaded from this forum. If the plugs were done at the big 90k service, then they can last for a long time still. If not, then you want to change them as well. Big job as the inlet plenium is in the way.
Sent from my GT-I9305 using Forum Runner