Gerhard Boshoff - Bloemfontein.
Gen2 SWB 3000 V6 1997, 304 000 km, original motor.
Bought the car November 2014 at 297000 km.
Immediately did the following:
[*]Cambelt & Fanbelt
[*]Major oil service
[*]Compression test
[*]Free flow Exhaust system
[*]New Shocks all round
[*]Chip & dynatune
[*]Smash & Grab
Took it for some 4x4 trips in Western Cape. Experienced a problem with overheating.
Changed radiator to a 3 core, changed thermostat and radiator cap.
Now 90%. Not 100% yet. Must switch off aircon when in low range and stop once or twice when climbing steep. (I do NOT allow it to boil).
As per a radiator company, apparently a slight leak in one of the heads causing excessive pressure in the radiator, although no sign off oil leaking into the water.
QUESTION: How long until it die on me?? Any ideas and recommendations?
Apart from that I'm EXTREMELY happy with the car and intend to use it as my "Spinnekop Toy" for quite some time! Even my consumption is better than expected at 13.0 l/100km.
Hi Gerhard,
If the problem is only in low range I suggest you check the fan, the fan cowling and the insulation between the radiator and the car body.
Sent from my GT-I9305
If the problem is only in low range I suggest you check the fan, the fan cowling and the insulation between the radiator and the car body.
Sent from my GT-I9305
Verify the state of the fan, cowing and airflow channels to the radiator and aircon. If is slightly odd that the aircon influence your temps, as it has its own fan which theorectically, should improve airflow and not generate that much more heat into the equation... 
Also, when is the last time the waterpump was replaced?
Have the above checked over before suspecting the heads, you indicated that there are no obvious signs. If it is a head, then the above ain't in vain anyway. Let us know how you get on.
Also, when is the last time the waterpump was replaced?
Have the above checked over before suspecting the heads, you indicated that there are no obvious signs. If it is a head, then the above ain't in vain anyway. Let us know how you get on.
Thanks Roelf & Larry for the replies. Appreciated...
By just looking at it, it appears that the cowling is OK. In position where it should be. The fan blades look fine and airflow to all three the radiators is fully open with no restrictions. But.. I am not sure about the effectiveness of the "Clutch". When the car was at full temperature and the engine switched off, I could spin the fan by hand with basically no friction. I would expect it to be more stiff. It is easy to replace and think I must do it in any case. I am not sure of the water pump. No leakages or noises however. As far as I can remember from previous experience, a pump start making screechy noises and start leaking, but the waterflow remain the same. Therefore not yet causing overheating?
The car has got an oil cooler although it is manual.. I did not check yet but which oil is it cooling? Engine or gearbox? What is the possibility that it is causing the problem?
By just looking at it, it appears that the cowling is OK. In position where it should be. The fan blades look fine and airflow to all three the radiators is fully open with no restrictions. But.. I am not sure about the effectiveness of the "Clutch". When the car was at full temperature and the engine switched off, I could spin the fan by hand with basically no friction. I would expect it to be more stiff. It is easy to replace and think I must do it in any case. I am not sure of the water pump. No leakages or noises however. As far as I can remember from previous experience, a pump start making screechy noises and start leaking, but the waterflow remain the same. Therefore not yet causing overheating?
The car has got an oil cooler although it is manual.. I did not check yet but which oil is it cooling? Engine or gearbox? What is the possibility that it is causing the problem?
That fan "clutch" needs a hard look. The symptom you decribe points to a fan- generated airflow issue.
Remember, if the seal between radiator and body is broken or missing, then hot air will recirculate at slow speed.
Sent from my GT-I9305
Remember, if the seal between radiator and body is broken or missing, then hot air will recirculate at slow speed.
Sent from my GT-I9305
Have the Viscous fan checked over. It is a serviceable item and obviously needs to be working well - it has been a nemesis to many a TDi due to neglect....
Thanks guys...
I'm going to replace the fan coupling and will simultaneously ensure that the radiator is properly sealing against the bodywork. Will let you know after some testing...
I'm going to replace the fan coupling and will simultaneously ensure that the radiator is properly sealing against the bodywork. Will let you know after some testing...
One silly thing I am thinking of: is it possible to install the fan the wrong way round? It seems to have had to be removed a few times. The visco is often the problem too.
Cheers, Robbie
Cheers, Robbie
Hi all.
I have done something about my viscous coupling... I could not find a replacement part in Bloemfontein and intended to go on leave in March/April. To get from JHB would have been too late for the holiday. I therefore took it out and tested it in boiling water. It did not lock up at all! I then opened the coupling and locked it permanently by clamping a piece of binding wire between the disc and the body all round. Because the binding wire is in a circle all round the average thickness of the "clamp" ensure that there is no off-balace and the fan run very nice without any visible vibration. I'm thinking of leaving it like that permanently.. (Comments??)
Since then I have done a trip to Danabaai, into Vleesbaai sanddunes, even a grade4 track at Bonniedale... No problem!!
The heat gauge have never climbed above the mid mark.
In the mean time, I have also fixed the "Air balls" in my rear suspension, Jacked up the front suspension, installed a petrol pump from the auxiliary tank, replaced all rubber petrol pipes and water pipes. Now much more trustworthy!
I have done something about my viscous coupling... I could not find a replacement part in Bloemfontein and intended to go on leave in March/April. To get from JHB would have been too late for the holiday. I therefore took it out and tested it in boiling water. It did not lock up at all! I then opened the coupling and locked it permanently by clamping a piece of binding wire between the disc and the body all round. Because the binding wire is in a circle all round the average thickness of the "clamp" ensure that there is no off-balace and the fan run very nice without any visible vibration. I'm thinking of leaving it like that permanently.. (Comments??)
Since then I have done a trip to Danabaai, into Vleesbaai sanddunes, even a grade4 track at Bonniedale... No problem!!
The heat gauge have never climbed above the mid mark.
In the mean time, I have also fixed the "Air balls" in my rear suspension, Jacked up the front suspension, installed a petrol pump from the auxiliary tank, replaced all rubber petrol pipes and water pipes. Now much more trustworthy!