Hi,
I bought the bushes from Amstrong Distributors in Kokstad, KZN.
Their part numbers PSB 259, 260, 261.
R2265 incl Vat for the 8 bushes on the front suspension for upper and lower control arms (wish-bones)
The bolts on my lower control arms are also seized. I am still busy trying source replacement from somewhere except the dealers...
They seem to be freely available on ebay in UK, but not so much in ZA.
I made a 'press' to try and push out the bolt after applying generous amounts of Q20, using a 8" G-clamp and a 50mm steel cup on the camber bolt head side. I kept the nut on, so not to damage the threads whilst pressing or knocking.
However, it seems that no bolt rescue will be possible. (Cutting off with a grinder not possible due to space constraints) .
Eventually we had to apply flame heat to the bolt head and nut side and get the persuasion tool's help in, (which damaged the threads). you have to get the nut loose and off first. Then you can fit the nut back on to hammer on after applying heat.
- I bought new bolts from Mitsubishi at about R176 per bolt)
This is a work in progress....
Attachments:
- PSB bushes
Last edited by MMC 3.5 V6 on Thu Jan 07, 2021 8:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Hi
Update. I decided to buy the 4 camber adjustment bolts rather than having it machined from a M16 x 110 long bolt. (22 bolt head and 17 nut.)
The part number is (L)MR418673.
Now for cutting the old ones out, removing the control arms and pressing the old bushes out and pressing the new ones in...
You need the following tools:
1. 33mm hole saw and arbor to drill out the center steel bush.
2. 2 Ton Bottle jack and 30-40mm metal bush. (after using the holesaw to drill the metal bush out as far as possible). You cannot press out the whole bush at once! you will damage the control arm.
3. Hacksaw to cut the intermediate steel ring + also cut the to outer steel bush cover / collar.
4. Small 8mm chisel and larger 15mm chisel to knock the original steel bush and collapse the steel outer collar part
5. Hammers and a solid Bench Vice as this process does include some flogging.
6. Oxy-acetylene gas welding set to apply heat as some of the metal outer part are tuff to get out.
Update. I decided to buy the 4 camber adjustment bolts rather than having it machined from a M16 x 110 long bolt. (22 bolt head and 17 nut.)
The part number is (L)MR418673.
Now for cutting the old ones out, removing the control arms and pressing the old bushes out and pressing the new ones in...
You need the following tools:
1. 33mm hole saw and arbor to drill out the center steel bush.
2. 2 Ton Bottle jack and 30-40mm metal bush. (after using the holesaw to drill the metal bush out as far as possible). You cannot press out the whole bush at once! you will damage the control arm.
3. Hacksaw to cut the intermediate steel ring + also cut the to outer steel bush cover / collar.
4. Small 8mm chisel and larger 15mm chisel to knock the original steel bush and collapse the steel outer collar part
5. Hammers and a solid Bench Vice as this process does include some flogging.
6. Oxy-acetylene gas welding set to apply heat as some of the metal outer part are tuff to get out.
Attachments:
- Required to collpase the collar and knock out
- Pferd or other
- Job complete
- Front Camber boltss
Hi,
I am toying with the idea to replace my front upper and lower arm bushes with poly. Got a quote on the 259, 260 and 261.
What difference did the poly bushes make to the suspension? Some say it gives a firmer/harder ride.
Did you do the rear as well?
I am toying with the idea to replace my front upper and lower arm bushes with poly. Got a quote on the 259, 260 and 261.
What difference did the poly bushes make to the suspension? Some say it gives a firmer/harder ride.
Did you do the rear as well?
Hi,
I only did the front wheels. The PU bushed I bought had aluminium centre bushings in and were manufactured well. Some others the centre hole are not so centre.
Like all PU bushes, they creak a bit at times, even with ample Graphite Ghries.
if you have time you can buy the rubber ones with the metal sheath on Ali-express, or buy the whole arm from Masterparts.
It was a big job removing the old bushes, and if you are not prepared to do it yourself, a mechanic will charge you more the arms complete.
All in all, it took us 3 solid days dealing with rusted bolts and removing the old bushes and getting all back to mobile state again.
Noel
I only did the front wheels. The PU bushed I bought had aluminium centre bushings in and were manufactured well. Some others the centre hole are not so centre.
Like all PU bushes, they creak a bit at times, even with ample Graphite Ghries.
if you have time you can buy the rubber ones with the metal sheath on Ali-express, or buy the whole arm from Masterparts.
It was a big job removing the old bushes, and if you are not prepared to do it yourself, a mechanic will charge you more the arms complete.
All in all, it took us 3 solid days dealing with rusted bolts and removing the old bushes and getting all back to mobile state again.
Noel
Hi Noel,
My front camber is out of spec on the Corghi wheel alignment computer. According to the shop the camber bolts will not adjust any further.
Does this mean the front control arm bushes need replacing?
My front camber is out of spec on the Corghi wheel alignment computer. According to the shop the camber bolts will not adjust any further.
Does this mean the front control arm bushes need replacing?
Hi,
I also had the similar issue (with a irritating rattle). They could not adjust the wheel alignment correctly and did not want to warranty the tires, but my problem was due to excessive play.
You will have to remove the wheel and have the suspension hang free (not supported under the bottom control arm), and use a big Gedore truck size tire lever to move and flex the control arm joints to see which ones are worn.
While you are busy, also 'pivot-lever-lift' the whole suspension up and down, by pushing underneath the bottom of the brake disc. This should move the whole suspension and shock absorber up-and-down and show up an issue with the top shock mounting rubber. (Which turned out where my rattle originated from..) These rubbers are also still cheap to replace from using KYB mounts from Dieselelectric. The Ironman shocks were pricey to replace.
By process of elimination, I first replaced the upper and lower Ball Joints. It was cheaper to replace than the control arms. Then when I was sure they were OK and had no play, I replaced the Control arm bushes. (or you can replace the whole control arm triangle complete (from Masterparts))
I also had the similar issue (with a irritating rattle). They could not adjust the wheel alignment correctly and did not want to warranty the tires, but my problem was due to excessive play.
You will have to remove the wheel and have the suspension hang free (not supported under the bottom control arm), and use a big Gedore truck size tire lever to move and flex the control arm joints to see which ones are worn.
While you are busy, also 'pivot-lever-lift' the whole suspension up and down, by pushing underneath the bottom of the brake disc. This should move the whole suspension and shock absorber up-and-down and show up an issue with the top shock mounting rubber. (Which turned out where my rattle originated from..) These rubbers are also still cheap to replace from using KYB mounts from Dieselelectric. The Ironman shocks were pricey to replace.
By process of elimination, I first replaced the upper and lower Ball Joints. It was cheaper to replace than the control arms. Then when I was sure they were OK and had no play, I replaced the Control arm bushes. (or you can replace the whole control arm triangle complete (from Masterparts))