Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

The demise of journeymen and appys is at the root of these problems. And properly trained journeymen are a dieing breed, sadly. Plug it into the computer - if the computer doesn't know the problem then no-one knows.

And thats the reason why I drive a swb Pajero Gen 4 now. The appy did not replace the gasket on the timing cover after replacing the timing "chain" at 90 k on my Terracan. Of course it broke the next day. Did not trust it after that. Oh, and stopped buying Hyundais as not a single service went by without problems. .
Have my life back again

I drive a Sport and thankfully do not have any problems. I did however experience the similar problems on my Audi 2.0 tdi 3 years ago. The agents identified the problem to be a clogged up exhaust return valve sensor that had to be replaced at about R5K. As a temp. solution the mechanic unplugged the sensor wire in 10 sec. flat and problem solved until the replacement part was obtained. During December last year I experienced the same problem, eg. loss of power, spontaneous rpm increase, no automatic up-change in gears etc. This time the agents claimed that the turbo had packed up and would cost R30K to repair. Even mention of the previous problem I experienced 3 years ago which was fixed by them, could not budge them. I then insisted that they again unplug the EXHAUST RETURN VALVE SENSOR WIRE and whalla! problem solved. I assume that most of the imported vehicles have this same control system, something to do with the control of engine exhaust emission which is mandatory and regulated abroad. In my case this problem was apparently caused by dirty subgrade diesel fuel or cold starting the engine. Hope this info can be of use to some one.

I have just had a similar issue with my wife's Subaru Forrester XT. She tells me it is jerking when she drives it and when I get home and check it I find that it wont rev constantly and keeps hunting (change of around 500RPM). Agents tell me all kinds of things and then I decide to check it myself and disconnect the Fuel Ratio Sensor and it idles fine but the car is still sick. Back to the agents who say the Engine Management Light and Cruise control will flash when the FRS is faulty and the car is not doing that so it cannot be the fault. Luckily Google is my friend and and I find out how the test a FRS which is sometimes referred to as an 02 sensor.

You heat it up with a blow torch and should get 1-Volt which is exactly what I got but I am still not convinced. Back to Google where I find the FRS on a Subaru should be 4-Volt. I bite the bullet and pay 3K for a new sensor (which the agents will not take back) and fit it and the car runs perfectly again.

Just proves we sometimes know more than the agents who as many have stated rely on a computer to find the fault instead of good old fashioned testing.