Good day
I promised myself that I would not tamper with the engine settings but anyway just checked my ignition timing yesterday and saw it was quite high, about 15 BTDC. According to the spec in the library for a 6G72 the timing should be 5+-2\700revs. I had my DC bakkie with same engine set on 11-12 BTDC which i thought was the correct setting. Like I say I don't want to fiddle but if it wrong it would like to get it closer to correct settings and performance. Running too much in advance will make it too rich?
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Too much advance will cause pinging/detonation - very bad for your engine and will lead to failure.
The reading might be correct because the ecu is advancing depending on parameters.
To set the static timing you must connect the brown terminal to earth and set the advance to 5 BTDC - I have mine at 7 BTDC at the coast on 95 and it doesn't ping (higher octane allows more advancement and less chance of pinging by doing so)
The black connector can be connected to 12v to let the fuel pump run.
The reading might be correct because the ecu is advancing depending on parameters.
To set the static timing you must connect the brown terminal to earth and set the advance to 5 BTDC - I have mine at 7 BTDC at the coast on 95 and it doesn't ping (higher octane allows more advancement and less chance of pinging by doing so)
The black connector can be connected to 12v to let the fuel pump run.
Hi 4eP
Static as in engine running and shorting out on brown wire which retard the timing a bit so you can see the timing mark on pully against the protruding timing marks on plastic cover. Problem on mine is the plastic cover marks is somehow angled over the pully and as result there is some piece of the pully that I can't see which is roundabout where 5 BTDC should be. I marked the pulley on TDC against the marks on the cover and then check timing, is this an incorrect measurement?
Static as in engine running and shorting out on brown wire which retard the timing a bit so you can see the timing mark on pully against the protruding timing marks on plastic cover. Problem on mine is the plastic cover marks is somehow angled over the pully and as result there is some piece of the pully that I can't see which is roundabout where 5 BTDC should be. I marked the pulley on TDC against the marks on the cover and then check timing, is this an incorrect measurement?
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clockwise on the distributor will advance
anti-clockwise will retard
you can see the marks on the black plastic cover by the bottom pulley (see pic below) with the timing marks on it. Then the notch on the pulley is on the ridge closest to the engine. My plastic was covering this ridge so I carefully cut a small strip off with a stanley knife to expose that ridge, and I made the notch more visible with a drop of tipp-ex.
Connect a piexce of wire to the brown connector and ground - you will see that the timing will stop bouncing around. If you try to rev it will reluctantly rev and there will be no advancement on the timing - this indicates the timing connector is working properly.
Adjust the distributor accordingly to get the timing to 5 BTDC.
Also see this discussion on another forum
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... hp?p=96186
anti-clockwise will retard
you can see the marks on the black plastic cover by the bottom pulley (see pic below) with the timing marks on it. Then the notch on the pulley is on the ridge closest to the engine. My plastic was covering this ridge so I carefully cut a small strip off with a stanley knife to expose that ridge, and I made the notch more visible with a drop of tipp-ex.
Connect a piexce of wire to the brown connector and ground - you will see that the timing will stop bouncing around. If you try to rev it will reluctantly rev and there will be no advancement on the timing - this indicates the timing connector is working properly.
Adjust the distributor accordingly to get the timing to 5 BTDC.
Also see this discussion on another forum
http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/sho ... hp?p=96186
I am confused now. There should only be one V or U mark on the pulley side closest to the engine. Mine however have two marks or basically one long mark. Struggle to attach the photo but it is about a cm long. So now I'm am clueless as to which mark to use for setting to 5 BTDC.
Will it work if I use my own mark as described earlier. Get all timing marks on cam and crank sprocket aligned which should give you TDC. Make a mark on the pulley against the TDC mark on the cover. Start engine and connect brown wire. Set own TDC mark to 5BTDC against cover.
Will it work if I use my own mark as described earlier. Get all timing marks on cam and crank sprocket aligned which should give you TDC. Make a mark on the pulley against the TDC mark on the cover. Start engine and connect brown wire. Set own TDC mark to 5BTDC against cover.
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you will need a micrometer on the piston top or on one of the cams (if you know the profile) to get TDC. I doubt a human's eye is accurate enough to gauge TDC.
MMm you also use your eyes when setting timing to 5BTDC with timing light. I don't plan to open the engine or cams to verify TDC so I guess my eyes will have to do and accept some margin for error. Than for the advice anyway.
I understand that what you described on top here is probably the extreme accurate measurement of TDC but when aligning the timing belt on the cams and crank sprocket you also use your eyes to line up the marks. Timing marks on the plastic cover is also probably not that extreme accurate due to warping and bending. Point is there must some margin of error when setting your timing according to the marks provided. Did you measure with micrometer to check your TDC to be accurate when setting your timing?4ePikanini wrote:you will need a micrometer on the piston top or on one of the cams (if you know the profile) to get TDC. I doubt a human's eye is accurate enough to gauge TDC.
Affiliate Member
when the marks are already there your eyes can distinguish when it is by half a degree. To try and gauge on a cam profile where TDC is you may turn the crank 15 degrees before you notice the cam moving the valve or rocker.
I had the marks already and with the plastic being warped and the pulley being slightly dirty I would say that the timing would be out by 1 degree at most. If you have no marks to go by I would indeed be astonished if you got TDC without a micrometer.
If your timing is out by as much as 5 degrees you may get piston to valve contact ( luckily not in the 6G72 engine but definitely in the 6G74) or you may experience pinging that is extremely hazardous to engine components.
Don't guess and don't take chances. It needs to be exact.
I had the marks already and with the plastic being warped and the pulley being slightly dirty I would say that the timing would be out by 1 degree at most. If you have no marks to go by I would indeed be astonished if you got TDC without a micrometer.
If your timing is out by as much as 5 degrees you may get piston to valve contact ( luckily not in the 6G72 engine but definitely in the 6G74) or you may experience pinging that is extremely hazardous to engine components.
Don't guess and don't take chances. It needs to be exact.
Hey Guys
Timing is very important, so i hope mine is in. the quetion i have is "can you setup the timing without the bottom cover?" I have the Paj 3.0 V6 AT LWB 93/94 model and because funds are limited i can only buy the bottom cover the end of this month. I bought this Paj on Sep 29th 2010 and it has a few niggles but the serious one is the timing. currently it is so advanced i am thinking that the distributor was put in incorrectly. Let me paint the picture, the guy i bought this paj from had the engin changed and overhauled 6 month ago, and had it replaced with the Colt 3.0 V6. according to Mitsubishi it is the same engins. The mechanic who did the work told him that they needed the timing cover to setup the timing.
So, can the timing be setup (not perfect) but close to reduce the fuel consumption without the bottom cover?
Please help
Frank
Timing is very important, so i hope mine is in. the quetion i have is "can you setup the timing without the bottom cover?" I have the Paj 3.0 V6 AT LWB 93/94 model and because funds are limited i can only buy the bottom cover the end of this month. I bought this Paj on Sep 29th 2010 and it has a few niggles but the serious one is the timing. currently it is so advanced i am thinking that the distributor was put in incorrectly. Let me paint the picture, the guy i bought this paj from had the engin changed and overhauled 6 month ago, and had it replaced with the Colt 3.0 V6. according to Mitsubishi it is the same engins. The mechanic who did the work told him that they needed the timing cover to setup the timing.
So, can the timing be setup (not perfect) but close to reduce the fuel consumption without the bottom cover?
Please help
Frank