Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

I recently posted in the Engine and Maintenance forum asking the questions, "6G74 fuel system or electrical problem?"

The Bosch shop computers now tells me that after I have changed out the fuel pressure sensor regulator and the high speed fuel pump, I have a control unit problem.
The mechanic says he can not reset the ECU and when I called the Mits representative in Arusha to see if they can clear the errors and reset the ECU, the guy told me "That is a messed up car. Sell it for parts. If you can ever get it running in the future just sell it as quickly as possible." [This is the Mits rep in Arusha!!!]

Well, I am not in favor of giving up. Altho I may have to eventually.

ECU Part number I was given by Bosch is MR560444, which when I google it shows up on websites in Russian!? I have a 2001 Petrol V6 3.5 6G74 and it was running great until the problems I listed in the above mentioned post. Complete power loss, limp mode, etc. Seemed to have started with "chakachuwa", or adulterated petrol...

I would like to reset the ECU, find a replacement, or sell it for parts...which way to turn!?

Aftermarket stand alone system?

Do you mean is mine an aftermarket stand alone system? I don't know - the car is in arusha right now.

The Mits rep in Arusha says he has 4 Pajero V6 3.5 Petrols in his yard that the owners have not claimed back - they have been abandoned. It seems to me that these Japanese car exporters are happy to send cars with known faults all over the world.

mitsubishi is known to be one of the most reliable car manufacturers in the world. Their interior don't compete with some of the german's but mechanically they are built extremely well from very good materials.

if your ecu packed up and you can't find a replacement it is a viable option to go with a standalone management system from EFI or gotech etc.

I am not familiar with that system but will look into it. I assume because you are suggesting it that it is a reliable option? I am not a gear head, either, and I would think I have to learn how to do it or find someone here in Dar who can...any hot leads?

Update from the mechanic:

When the vehicle is cold started, there is a good strong signal from the ECU, after it sits for a while (Idling, bringing engine temp up) or soon after getting under load, the signal disappears and the car enters the limp or safe mode. When on the diagnostics machine, there are no codes showing errors from the ECU.

Any thoughts why a signal is detected cold but not when hot or under a load?

Might be a good idea to look at the temp sensors. Once forgot to reconnect the wire to the temp sensor and engine idled fine but as soon as your wanted to accellerate it started spluttering and running rough.