Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

Hi Guys,
Any of you clever guys out there have any idea how I can loosen the seized bolts in my suspension? its the bolts that you adjust the wheel alignment with. They are solid. Up to now I have lubricated where possible with rust penetrant, I have tried to loosen with a strong arm (with an pipe extention) and tried an air gun. They do not budge. The next option would be heat, I guess, anyone know if there are rubber bushes that can be melted? or any other method beside cutting them off (the new ones are expensive).

tap it with a socket extension
spray tool in a can or q20
repeat the above 4 or 5 times a few hours apart

you can use a little heat as a last resort - I don't like heat on critical components - scared of metal fatigue.

When you finally tackle the bolt, use a good socket or wrench and don't pull on the handle, give it smack with a hammer to shock the nut or bolt loose.

This is my method and has worked on all the bolts I haven't twisted off

If its the on the front lower control arm and the bushes are damage you'll have to get a whole new control arm. they dont sell the bushes separately. so i have been told.

i am currently in the same position as as the front caster adjusting bolt has seized and the only way to remove it is to cut it out, but it will be hard not to damage the bushes.

4ePikanini wrote:tap it with a socket extension
spray tool in a can or q20
repeat the above 4 or 5 times a few hours apart

you can use a little heat as a last resort - I don't like heat on critical components - scared of metal fatigue.

When you finally tackle the bolt, use a good socket or wrench and don't pull on the handle, give it smack with a hammer to shock the nut or bolt loose.

This is my method and has worked on all the bolts I haven't twisted off

Thanks guys,
4ePikanini, what do you mean "tap it with a socket extention"?

Wilddog wrote:

4ePikanini wrote:tap it with a socket extension
spray tool in a can or q20
repeat the above 4 or 5 times a few hours apart

you can use a little heat as a last resort - I don't like heat on critical components - scared of metal fatigue.

When you finally tackle the bolt, use a good socket or wrench and don't pull on the handle, give it smack with a hammer to shock the nut or bolt loose.

This is my method and has worked on all the bolts I haven't twisted off

Thanks guys,
4ePikanini, what do you mean "tap it with a socket extention"?

Or a small hammer. Use half the force you would use to hammer a nail into wood.

I do it just to crack loose rust - it may or may not work but I do it anyway for the odd chance it does work..

Two guys do this better than one.

Put tension on the bolt (not enough to strip it, but close! ).
A long ring-spanner works best.

Now (while the tension is maintained), m@er the bolt itself as hard as you can (on the bolt head).

If necessary, use a 13mm MS bolt as a driver.
Hit the bolt head, not the spanner!

(That's why I suggested a ring-spanner. you cannot hit the bolt head if you use a socket).
The idea is that the shock wave will loosen the rust (if you are lucky).

I am not sure which bolt you are talking about (what about a photo?), but if it is a bolt and nut which you can replace, either turn it off with brute force, or grind the bolt/nut off.

Wilddog,

1. I had the same problem with my Pajero - at the front and back. Fortunately, the Stealers repaired it under the maintenance plan.

2. They did the following:
a. Rear suspension: the lower bolts wer cut eith an angle grinder and the whole arm removed. On a work bench the old rubbers and metal sleeves were hammered out New rubbers were fitted and suspension re-assembled. When I tried to have the caster, camber and toe-in adjusted, we found that the bolts for the adjustment of the toe-in were also rusted. The stealers followed the same procedure and replaced these bolts also.
b. Front suspension. Both the lower bolts were beginning to seize but fortunately they could hammer them out. New bolts were fitted. According to the stealers, the lower wishbone rubbers can not be replaced and new wishbone must be bought and installed.

3. When I got the Pajero at home, I stripped both the front and rear suspensions and had the new bolts plated. When I reassembled them, I added a lot of grease to try and keep water and condensation out. This was about
25 000km ago. The job of removing and replacing the bolts is a fairly easy one - provided that you have the necessary trolly jack and axle stands. If i think back, about 20 mins per side (2 x front and 2 x back).

4. According to the stealer hearquarters (Merc in the south west of Pretoria), there is no repair scheme or maintenace bulletin for these bolts. According to them this is a rear occurance!! A frien of mine had a similar problem but after a good fight, the stealers also replaced his bolts.

5. The funny thing aabout these bolts are that the upper bolts are all cadmium plated whilst the lower bolts are normal unplated steel.

All the best and phone if I can be of assistance.

Cloyd. (0125674909 // 0835649141)

Hi guys I am now having the same problem with the lower front bolts that are seized. The agents say I have to replace the control arm as you don't get the rubber bushes. Question cant these bushes be replace with Poly bushes. The agents want R 8400.00 per control arm and R 888.00 for four bolts plus R 224.00 for four nuts. There must be someone that installs poly bushes somewhere..... Thanks guys your comments will be appreciated.

Get some used control arms and replace them at an Indy like Henk De Klerk or Arnold Venter at Mitsitech


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Hi guys. I am selling polyurethane bushes with steel inserts for front suspension, lower control arm. All you need Is new centric bolts.
My rear centric bolts are seized and I am going to try a mix of acetone and atf. I have tried a hammer and shock. Will add heat to the mix if it’s not working.