Pajero Owners Club of South Africa

OK, we are heading a bit off topic here - but to build on Marius' comment about preferring diesel - If I am carrying extra fuel for cross-border travels I feel far safer with 80l of diesel in jerry cans vs. 80l petrol from a fire risk perspective.

Henk,

I agree that there are many reports of DIY diesel re-builds failing very soon after it was done.

I think the following are often the cause (any, or a combination):

• (As I have said many a time) people tend to repair the result of a problem, without finding the cause.
• Diesel engines are very dependent on a healthy cooling system. Neglect often leads to engine failure.
• Diesel engines' heads need a bit more care when replaced than petrol engines (due to the higher combustion chamber pressures):
  • The machined finish on both the head and the block needs to be totally flat and the finish near mirror-like. I had the specs (in micron) somewhere, but could not find it.
  • Some mechanics use the cheapest, in stead of the best quality gaskets.
  • If the manufacturer calls for new stretch bolts, do it!
• People are negligent on the coolant in their engines. An engine's coolant should have not even a trace of rustiness (colour) in it. When I replaced the thermostat on my Touareg TDi with 235 000kms on it, the coolant was 100% clear (only the normal pink tint). If the coolant is kept in 100% condition (it degenerates, and needs to be replaced at regular intervals), the radiator, pipes and hoses will last much longer.

On the matter of fuel economy (or economy in general):

• My Gen1 3.2 Di-D is under-geared (1:4.8 diffs), but still returns long term figures of 10-11 l/100km. It is a manual, though.
• My VW Touareg 5.0l V10 TDi has the power delivery of most large V8s, but still returns 10-10.3 l/100km on the open road. The long term figure is 12.6 l/100km. No petrol with the same power will come even close to that! Even the popular ±4l V6 petrol engines use close on twice that much fuel.
• I have owned large petrol engines (5.7 V8 Ford and 4.3 V6 Chevy), and those engine teach you how to lie about your fuel consumption (because you are embarrassed to admit it even to yourself!)
• Servicing of a diesel (in my experience) is not only simpler / easier, but also less expensive than a petrol engine. (MHO, don't shoot me!)

Lastly, a good diesel engine is so much nicer to drive (in a 4x4) than a petrol (again MHO).

4ePikanini wrote: "TranskeiCowboy used to get 10l/100km on his Gen3 GLX but his was the facelift model."

I am also a proud owner of a 2006 3.2 DID GLX and I get
10L/100km regularly on out of town trips for instance JNB-PE and JNB-Kimberley.I am running on 265/70R16 G Y Wranglars instead of the normal 235/70R16 as specified for the GLX.
Nice having friends like you posting on the forum. Interresting topics.

Thanks folks and 4es If I can get 10l/100 I will be happy.

What scares me most about the move is the unknown, as you all know I am a petrol-head, I can do a field strip and repair of most petrol engines and would even go so far as to tackle a gearbox or diff. Electronics don't scare me anymore as I have evolved with it and have learned that it is pretty reliable. What scares me is diesel, the last diesel engine I did was a 404 Peugeot bakkie that was washed down a river and a friend of mine was cash strapped to have it done. Everything was done according to the book and the engine was rebored as well as heads skimmed, line bore and all the pumps was replaced, I could not understand why my friend was spending the amount of cash on this vehicle. That was 30y ago, the body has severe rust damage but the bakkie still works on the farm to this day and starts first time every time.

Correct me if I am wrong but it seems as if the common rail unit is the one to go for? My son drives one of these Vito 2.1l diesels and for its size it is awesome, it pulls like a plat kar turbo and just smells the diesel with about 13km/l being the norm in town and up to 17 open road. The modern diesels are a far cry from the old style that I am used to and judging by the performance of the vito or reg they don't have to be slow as well. ( We had a touareg behind us on sunday and I had to step hard on the loud pedal of the rs4 to keep him at bay)

I am not overly concerned about top speed or acceleration just reliable low down torque and reasonable open road speed. The vehicle will be used for patrolling and if it should drop me it would mean a two day walk back to civilisation through lion country, not a nice one to look forward to.

Where can I get a complete re-con Engine for my 1998 2.8 TDI Pajero?....Any ideas how much? Thanks for all the ideas and advice so far my friends here!

Engine Den

http://www.engineden.co.za/shop.html?pa ... gory_id=13



I see they are still selling the Lexus V8 at a ridiculous price of R5500 which includes the auto box. (View on the front page of http://www.engineden.co.za )

Thanks Marius and others for your hints, tips and advice! I do think my engine is kaput......every thing is gonna go....diesel pump, alternator, radiator etc...it WILL never stop (or go!)....Brilliant advice marius that I get a new import engine and break my own engine for spares! After all...the crank, new pistons, new head etc an more are perfect!
I agree too that I will get nothing for the vehicle 'as-is'....and someone will get a bargain and fix it! So a new engine is what I am looking for!....Any ideas where I start looking....no matter how long it takes to import one if necessary!? I am in communication with the guys in CT for a new radiator....but they want the sample!...Hassle but what ever! I do love driving my Paj....specially on my farm off-road in the mountains hunting!
Any further tips on finding a new engine will be welcome.....any warnings on potential probs fitting a new engine welcome too! I wanna do this but do it rite first time....I learned a lot of lessons trying to fix a dud.....not next time please!...Cheers and thanx again guys!

Thanx Gerhard.....I got yr drift!...It is difficult regestering an import! So far I have gotten engine clearance (the engine is a SA original....and got chassis clearance (the vehicle was stolen and scrapped and registered as recovered on the records)....I am now re-registering the vehicle as "new re-build".....I had to bribe a registration authority person to do this for me! Now I just need a RWC.....but the car gotta run first and then its all done!....Yr advice is perfecly right thank you!

4ePajero wrote:I don't want to P on anybody's battery, but it is impossible to register that vehicle in South Africa.

(... been there, done that, nearly had the Pajero confiscated & crushed. I was only saved by the fact that the legislation had changed from the time I imported the vehicle and the time I wanted to register it)

Do it right first time.

New everything.

Radiator, radiator cap, coolant hoses, thermostat, oils and filters.

Do this now and look after her and she will give you another 300 thousand kms and more!

Sent via iPad & Forum Runner

where can I get a new water-pump for my 98 Pajero 2.8 TDI ? Or who can I contact?...are there any good, reliable Pajero part suppliers you know of?

Yes....I have to fix what I got....I cant afford another 20k on a new engine (2nd hand import)!....I also want other parts....a genuine head gasket and O-ring set etc.

Engine Parts in Bloem have been supplying me well so far but the helpful sales guy has left!...Now they look for problems not solutions!....and dont even call me back!

I did find a new radiator at Engine-Den, Pretoria!